Trade Show Report: Pitti Bimbo 88 - AW19 / FW19

It seems a while now since Pitt Bimbo 88, but the vibrant imprint of this edition and its events remain clearly visible both in my memory and the collective memory that is the web. What’s really fantastic about Pitti Bimbo is how the children’s show benefits from following the men’s show Pitti Uomo, with its top notch production, installations and visuals.

Even though the show is the first in the season the foundations of this season’s trends are already emerging from stands. We saw a beneficial change to some of the locations i.e The Nest and Active Lab joining to KidzFizz aided visitor footfall to both dedicated areas. The Kid’s Evolution sections was an absolute favourite from the show, a group of designers who usually create adult ranges were selected by Alessandro Enriquez to produce a children’s capsule collection. All ready to order for the AW/ FW 19 season.

Finally our “Lose the north’ Compass by SO-SO lead us impeccably to our Pirouette One to Watch Award winners for fashion & design for Spring/ Summer 19. So let’s take a look at Pitti 88.

The Atmosphere

Big, vibrant, partially open aired with the smell of fresh Italian coffee wafting through the aisles. First day on opening hour it’s all GO GO… In fact we bumped into buyers on the set up day before the official opening. Scheduled appointments to be kept whilst precariously weaving through delivery trucks and moving rails.

The first two days are punctuated with events, on the third day the atmosphere is much quieter, however some of the bigger International buyers hang around to do business in the calm.

Trends

Metallics: A touch of gold metallic is always a favourite but for AW19 Metallics come in various hues: purple, orange/ rust, oil effects and more. See AW19 Velveteen, Raspberryplum, EFVVA & IL Gufo.

Giant Pom Poms: Not just for accessories or detailing. AW19 the Giant pom pom is in the garment! See Tuc Tuc

Plaid: It’s everywhere, and in every guise: skirts, trousers, coat, shirt everywhere. In fact I ended up comparing notes at lunch with a US buyer on which pieces and labels we had both favoured. There were quite a few matches.

Animals: The Guinea pig is the new llama, it would have been wonderful if the Guinea Pig was the new unicorn but to be honest we all know who would win in that battle. See Mini Rodini AW19 Guinea pig club.

Sustainability/ Organic: Can no longer be considered a brand’s USP. Both are now expected from an industry perspective. Most collections contain partially organic, recycled materials with a majority of brands being mindful of sustainability and good practice.

Revision and Relocation, Active Lab & The Nest

This season the show organisers decided to relocate The Nest and Active lab sections so to adjoin the KizFizz section (situated at the main entrance point). This made great sense as all three sections are complementary to one another. In many ways the amalgamation of the three sections effectively creates a smaller independent show within the big show. Helpful to both brands and buyers.

Speaking with brands they were happy with the relocation. It was interesting how the fusion of the Active Lab brands outlining the new brands of The Nest situated in the centre acted as an introduction to the ‘newness’ of The Nest brands. As usual Dimitra Zavakou from Little Pop Up was in residence, Dimitra really invests in her brands, advocating their collections to press, buyers and visitors.

The Kid’s Evolution Section, a favourite!

This I really enjoyed, down in the basement of the huge main pavilion we found a group of designers usually known for designing adult ranges  The designers were invited by Alessandro Enriquez to create a children’s capsule collection available to order for retail AW19. There were some cool results, here are two of my favourites…

Luna Puna by Nina Leuca (Italian label made in Salento)
Like a rail of knitwear sweeties with eye catching glints of metallic lurex yarn, balloon sleeves and oversizing for style. The woven balloon pants paired with the knits make for an adorable look. Simply coup de coeur! Style wise it feels like a mix of french relaxed chic and Italian bold luxe. All produced in Italy.

 

STMA by Stefania Marra (Italian label made in Milan)
Really cool label, slightly edgy, slightly retro mixed with quirky. Logo detailing and yes super cool bang on trend plaid.

 

The Pirouette One to Watch Award Labels Fashion & Design at Pitti Bimbo 88

Guided by the SoSo Lose the North Compass…

Fashion One to Watch goes to Apocalypto kids!

They have arrived with their unique style and branding just at the right time. The quality is there, the pieces are fun, bold and incredibly detailed. Their styling is perfect for the buyers they wish to attract and their imagery tailored to the reseller.  As the award suggests the collection to keep and eye on for me…it was written in the stars.

Design One to Watch goes to Cubcoats!

Cute plush cuddle characters that unfold into a hoodie. Yes please! say the kids. The LA based team behind Cubcoats are definitely onto something here, with lots of exciting projects in the pipeline for 2019. Cubcoats is absolutely One to Watch in kid’s design for 2019.

And a big thank you to everyone who took part in the Pirouette Surprise box questions!

Velveteen, Anja Schwerbrock, EFVVA, Motoreta, The Bonnie Mob, Childrensalon WGSN, Smudgetikka, Cubcoats, Barn of Monkeys, Paade Mode, Miss L Ray, Little Pop Up, Petite Parade, Cartableenfant and more….thank you!

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Show Stats

Visitors: 10,000 total
Buyers: 6,400 + (almost 2,450 were foreign buyers)
Exhibitors: 564

Results for the top markets present at Pitti Bimbo

1. Spain, registers a rise in attendance (+7%);
2. Greece (+20%)
3. France & United Kingdom, notwithstanding the specific difficulties both countries are experiencing, surprisingly confirm the high levels achieved by their buyers at the last winter edition
4. Turkey, another significant market for kids’ fashion
5. Germany, slight drop
6.  Russia (-14%) and Ukraine (-9%),  consistent falls were expected  where the situation of the domestic economy and the geopolitical scenario have worsened in recent months.
7.  China, Japan and United States maintain the results of the sales outlets achieved at the last few editions
8. Belgium (+20%), Poland (+5%) and Saudi Arabia satisfying increase
9. Italy, the attendance figures registered are showing a drop of around 9%.

The ranking of the fair’s top 16 reference markets

1. Spain in the lead (217 buyers)
2. Russia (216)
3. United Kingdom (173)
4. Germany (135)
5. Turkey (103)
6. Ukraine (92)
7. Greece (83)
8. France (79)
9. Netherlands (75)
10. China (70)
11. Belgium (62)
12. Japan (49)
13. Switzerland (46)
14. Poland (41),
15. Korea (41)
16. United States (40).

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View Pirouette Edit Pitti Bimbo 88 Runway Shows #AW19 

 

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